Wednesday, November 24, 2010

MORE THAN A THOUGHT BUBBLE

In Hobart this week I attended a special dinner at Parliament House to celebrate the inscription of the five Tasmanian World Heritage Convict Sites (and very nice the dinner was too).

Speeches and chats covered many related topics, one of which was the matter of road signs pointing visitors to the various sites, but particularly to Woolmers and Brickendon Estates.

Signs are always difficult things to get exactly right and there seem always to be objections of one sort or another. It can be a burearocratic nightmare between several departments before the design and the situation is deemed to be just right. But one of the main difficulties is - as per usual - about the money, because good roadsigns don't come cheap.

Now it sounds as if there might be some financial help from the Commonwealth Government for World Heritage signs. Wouldn't that be wonderful? And everyone agreed that it absolutely would!

I vividly imagine visitors arriving at Launceston Airport and being made aware - almost as soon as they arrive - that there's a World Heritage Convict Site very near the airport. Then I imagine them (or at least some of them) making their way instantly there!

Here's hoping that this particular little dream can soon become a reality and that it proves to be more than just a throw-away dinner-time thought bubble......!

Monday, November 15, 2010

VISITING BRICKENDON

This week I went to dinner at Brickendon Estate near Longford along with 150 others - we were all attending a fascinating symposium in Launceston, all about Interpretation of historic sites, National Parks etc.

A delicious barbequed meal was held in one of the large old barns on the property and we were treated to some good wines - Tasmanian of course.

Brickendon Farm Village interprets the convict story so well and, along with neighbouring Woolmers Estate (the two properties act as one precinct) has recently been made a part of Austalia's World Heritage Convict Sites. These two grand colonial Estates are separated by the Macquarie River and they illustate the "good", or at least the more positive, side of the early convict Assignment System.

Our visit coincided with an enormous hailstorm which lasted half and hour and which seemed to fall exclusively on the very barn in which we were sheltering - luckily we had plenty of wine to while away the time! After the downpour the sun came out and rainbows formed, giving us a wonderful bright evening to wander and take in the lovely little convict-built village.

The old bake-house had been fired up and a baker was there busily making damper, and the picturesque little church was alive with organ music especially for the occassion.

When darkness fell we were treated to a theatrical performance of "Voices from the Graves" performed by members of Launceston's Mudlark Theatre. This was such an evocative performance bringing the stories of convicts vividly alive for us. Hearing these true stories in such an authentic setting, where the convicts actually lived and worked, was just amazing.

A visit to this beautiful historic place is simply a must for anyone interested in the convict story and indeed for every tourist to our state!

Check the website http://www.brickendon.com.au/

Look for "Voices from the Graves"....

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Great Food

Did you know that if you are short of time or - Heaven forbid - simply lazy, it's possible to buy really wonderful ready-prepared food from the kitchens of Alps & Amici (of course you'd need to be in Launceston to find it!)

This is seriously gourmet food I'm talking here and quite possibly, better than you could do it yourself - especially if you are as busy, or as lazy, as I am.

Daniel Alps is often right there in the kitchen busily creating exciting dishes, using the very freshest of seasonal, local produce.

I'll quote just a couple of the meals available right now.

Just imagine - Ginger spiced chicken with black noodles; or Fusilli pasta with garlic, roast mushrooms, spinach and herb oil. The mouth waters just reading about it let alone seeing and tasting.....

And the range of bread is impressive and very enticing. I have long ago decided not to bake my own bread because I'm such a sucker for eating fresh-baked bread and could easily consume an entire loaf, if I'm not very careful. But the bread in this food improium is just as bad for me - the wonderful smell of baking is just so tempting!

It's guaranteed to make you take some home with you.

How lucky are we to have such an overflowing abundance of delicious food of all kinds to choose from.

I've read about our fist convicts and early settlers and am amazed at how they managed, and I'm finding out more about this to tell soon!

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Alps & Amici

This week I met that champion of Tassie grown food and wine - Daniel Alps. This is a well known serious foodie we are talking about here - someone who is synonymous with the best quality Tasmanian produce. I have never met this fascinating character due to having lived in France for the last twelve years, during which time the high-end food scene in Tas has grown and grown.

The food emporium Daniel and his wife have only recently established in Launceston's Abbot Street - called Alps and Amici (which means Alps and Friends, just in case your Italian is not so fluent!) is everything a foodie could dream about and much, much more. It's all beautifully presented making everything almost irrestistably tempting.

Daniel is right into Cooking Classes (which sound wonderful and run from March through to November) and he conducts seminars and food and wine tastings too, and even cup-cake decorating classes.

Cup-cake madness sure has taken hold becasue these classes are regularly booked out. And actually the cup-cakes you can buy in the shop are very imaginative and - well, just divine!

This has to be potato central too because there are no less than eight different types of spuds, along with an impressive range of fresh fruit and veg - naturally Tasmanian grown. You can also buy truffles when they are in season.

And I haven't even got around to mentioning the terrific selection of wines - all Tasmanian of course.

Altogether Alps and Amici is quite simply foodie paradise!

Where to find Alps and Amici:

52 Abbot Street
East Launceston
Phone: 6331 1777
Email: info@alpsandamici.com
Web: http://bit.ly/dAqP0M

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Wool Centre

I visited the Tasmanian Wool Centre at Ross recently and was struck by how much there is to see and do inside this lovely old sandstone building. Of course, as you might expect there's everthing imaginable about wool and sheep - even a film about the history of shearing - should you want to learn how to shear a sheep during the course of your life!

I loved the big, colourful modern tapestry by John Coburn - naturally all made from superfine wool. And one could spend hours browsing among the woolly articles for sale - the very best, not to mention the warmest available.

But one of the most interesting things of all, I thought, was a small museum telling a more general history of Ross and its district. I had no idea for example that Ross started out as a garrison town and that there were so many connections with the history of convicts in the early years of the development of the region.

The surrounding enormous sheep stations, with their beautiful and historic homesteads, were built, not only "on the sheep's back" but actually with the hard labour of convicts.

There's a film telling about the beautiful sandstone architecture and something about the families who have made this lovely little village the charming place it is today.

I was intrigued to note that it's possible to book a tour of the village and have one of the trained guides give a more detailed insight into its history.

Of course I've often been to Ross, sometimes stopping or a coffee or a light lunch usually on the way to somewhere else. But now I've discovered that there's much more to Ross than immediately meets the eye - though what meets the eye has always looked highly attractive!

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Cataract Gorge, Launceston

Cataract Gorge in Launceston is usually no more than an attrative, peaceful little stream with boulders, but occasionally, when it's in flood, as has been the case this week, it becomes a raging, roaring torrent about a thousand times bigger than normal.

There has been torrential rain, and a huge volume of water is forced between the high dolerite walls of the Gorge, to empty itself into the Tamar River. And the whole of Launceston turns out to stroll along the walkway to view this dramatic spectacle of nature in the raw.

Those early Victorians knew a thing or two (as well as doing all the energetic building to make Launceston what it is today), they constructed a lovely walkway along the side of Cataract Gorge, linking Kings Bridge with the Victorian gardens of the Cliff Grounds.

There's a cute little cottage hanging precariously over that walkway which the city of launceston makes available in a residency scheme for Visiting Artists (and it has resulted in some wonderful artworks being created).

But, about my walk - starting from the Kings Bridge, I walk up through the Cliff Grounds, to the suspension bridge at First Basin. I like to do this walking thing vigorously and step out swiftly, creating a pleasant round trip by returning along the much steeper Zig-Zag Track. This track runs along the other side of the gorge and there are look-out spots encouraging you to take in some spectacular views over the Tamar Valley.

My round trip takes me about an hour. It is possible to venture on much longer walks should the fancy take you, as there are plenty of connecting tracks all through this beautiful natural bushland reserve. I face a serious temptation when I get to the end of my walk at Stillwater River Cafe where I finally undo all the good I've just done by indulging in a seriously scrumptious slice of cake with my coffee - and with lashings of cream too! Aargh!!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Longford Antiques

I discovered a wonderful antique shop in Longford this week. OK the honest truth is I've known about it for years and I also know the owners, Robert Henley and renowned Tasmanian artist Michael McWilliams well. In fact the shop, facing onto Longford's pretty village green, has been in the McWilliams family for many, many years. And this treasure trove is appropriately named - wait for it - Longford Antiques.

It's filled with covetable antiques all beautifully displayed and is a lovely place to spend an hour browsing or drooling. Tasmania has long been a magnet for antique dealers and collectors and visitors to Tasmania make up a large proportion of their clientele.

Robert told me they are well used to carefully packing and dispatching valuable purchases to distant places.

As for me, I found an absolutely stunning 17th century English oak cupboard that I would cheerfully kill for.

Such a shame I've given up having important birthdays!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Stillwater Restaurant, Launceston

I broke down today at Stillwater Restaurant right on Laucneston's waterfront. The staff could not have been more friendly, helpful and attentive.

The day was bright and sunny, the tide was in, making the Tamar River look sparkling and the view from the resturant was magnificent - all bobbing boats and wheeling seabirds.

This must be one of the best locations in the entire city - making it the perfect place to break down, if that's what you're going to do.

Stillwater is also the perfect venue for any kind of function, large or small and certainly my favourite place to sit and enjoy a coffee or (just occassionally) to sip a glass of champagne if I can think of any reason to celebrate.

And what about the food? I hear you ask. After all Stillwater is a restaurant with a huge reputation for the very finest dining in Tasmania. It also has one of the best cellars - and there's even a wonderful cellar room you can reserve for that special private dinner party.

Sadly, I'll have to leave descriptions of the delights of the menu for another day - I had no time for more that a cup of (very good) coffee.

Then it was - go get that pesky car fixed!


How to find Stillwater Restaurant
Situated at Ritchies Mill at the bottom of Patterson St, Launceston
Email: stillwater@microtech.com.au
Ph: 6337 4153
www.stillwater.net.au

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Red Bridge Cafe at Campbell Town

There's a new food emporium in Campbell Town, just near the Red Bridge. Well, it's new to me, and I loved the atmosphere and the decor that's been created.

The building is all sandstone and the architecture is unmistakably Georgian of the 1840s. It was long known to Tasmanians as an antiques shop and is now named 'The Red Bridge Cafe' in its new incarnation.

The owners have wisely kept all the building's old-fashioned rustic qualities to create a lovely space for the huge range of foodstuffs they are offering. As you walk in the door you are confronted by foodie heaven! And, of course, there's an emphasis on the produce of Tasmania all beautifully displayed - difficult not to treat yourself to so many yummy things.

The surprise for me was complete when I walked through to the rear where an enourmous log fire warms a restaurant area with windows overlooking the river. The view from here takes in the attractive red-brick bridge and the peace and quiet of the river valley.

Open seven days a week, this is the perfect spot to linger over coffee or a light lunch and a lovely place to break your journey along the Heritage Highway.



How to find The Red Bridge Cafe and Providore
Dino & Karen Dioguardi
137 High Stree, Campbell Town
Ph: 6381 1169
http://www.redbridgecafe.com.au

Ladies who lunch

Not that I'm one of those ladies who lunch, but if I were I have found the perfect place to do it! Called 'The River's Edge Cafe', it is a two minute drive out of Longford in the north of Tasmania.

Set in lovely gardens, a 19th century red-brick building has been converted into a sun-filled restaurant with a residence upstairs reached by an attractive wrought-iron circular staircase. And there's a little foot-bridge over a pond at the entrance, so that the building almost seems surrounded by water.

Jane Randall is the friendly cook and she told us her Chicken Bocconcini with Cranberry and a Puff Pastry Crust is a big favourite, as are her risottos - "which I just love to cook" she said.

A beautifully presented cook book written by Jane and interspersed with gorgeous photos of the garden is on sale at the cafe.

The only small quibble I had was that it was dificult to choose a light lunch from the menu on offer and I do suggest that Jane might like to introduce one or two lighter choices.

This is a restaurant just perfect for that grand special occassion lunch or dinner with all the trimmings. There is a very good wine list and the deserts are especially wicked.

Note to self: Must try harder to become a 'lady who lunches'!



How to find The River's Edge Cafe
Open 10 am - 4 pm Thursday to Sunday.
38 Tannery Road, Longford
Website: http://www.riversedgelongford.com.au
Email: jane@riversedgelongford.com.au
Phone: 03 6391 2559

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

The 'bones' of the National Rose Garden can only be experienced in winter!

It's the middle of winter, and, at the National Rose Garden at Woolmers there is hardly a single bloom anywhere to be seen. All the roses are sleeping in their winter dormancy. Even so, if you are visiting Woolmers, which, by the way, is open right through the winter) it's well worth taking a walk in the Rose Garden.

I think when everything is wintery, (sometimes it is even so covered in frost that it looks for all the world like snow) that's when the 'bones' of the garden are easier to see - it's when the whole design is most visibly apparent. And there is always a lovely veiw to take in over the surrounding country-side and even the hawthorn hedges surrounding field seem more starkly obvious.

This is a trememdously busy time in the Rose Garden - possibly the busiest time of the entire year. It's the time of major pruning of the roses and also the time they must be fertilised and then mulched. The mop-top Acasias are trimmed back hard in order to keep them in shape, and all the hedges must be cut.

And all this hard work so that, come October, we can marvel at the millions of roses which will then be getting ready to burst into full glorious bloom!

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Ghostly voices from the graves...

Ghostly voices came strangely to me from out of the graves in an old country churchyard...

OK not really all that ghostly, as it was a bright sunny afternoon and not at all eerie or mysterious because the voices came from actors at a most unusual theatrical performance.

The church was Christ Church in the middle of Longford and the graveyard clusters around the beautiful little stone church built in the 1800s - the village of Longford has, over the yers, gradually grown to surround the church.

The theatrical performance by Launceston's Mudlark Theatre was actually right in amongst the gravestones, some very old and worn and tilting every which way. It was an enactment of the lives of some of the early convicts buried there. Their lives have been carefully researched and their stories are authentic and highly dramatic.

The story I specially liked best was about a convict woman who had worked for her freedom, married and eventually bore her husband no less than fifteen children. After she died (probably of exhaustion!) he re-married and produced a further eleven children - such unimaginable numbers and telling us of such hard lives.

These stories have been digitised and you can buy the CD in the form of an Audio Companion which, along with two fascinating stories inludes original compositions by guitarist Chris Jacobson and music from The Chordwainers played on unique leather instruments.

The CD can also accompany the self-guided walking brochure of Longford's Christ Church graveyard, Voices from the Graves, which reveals the rich and intriguing stories if 14 people who are buried there, and also the booklet, In Heaven as it is on Earth, telling even more stories.

If you are interested, visit the Heritage Highway website at www.heritagehighway.com.au/news/13125492

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

'Cookery Nook' is also known as the Baker's Cottage, though I love the first name best as it's just so quaintly evocative. And the reality is every bit as picturesque as the name, as you can see from the photo.

'Cookery Nook' is the first building you see as you walk onto the property and it's everyone's idea of how a small colonial cottage should look, with a lovely dark grey slate roof and even a sweet little 'front yard' to complete the picture. The small building next to the cottage still has its large oven at the rear of the building, where bread was originally baked for all the convicts employed on the property.

Build during the 1840s 'Cookery Nook' was originally the Bakehouse - obviously where the baker lived - and the baker was quite an important person in the scheme of things back then, though he probably would have been an assigned convict working toward an eventual ticket-of-leave and freedom.

Fast forward to the modern era, and, as I saw, when I peeped inside, the little cottage has been made into lovely cosy two-room accomodation complete with a log fire and a print by local artist Michael McWilliams hanging over the mantel.

There's a tiny fully-equipped kitchen fitten into one corner of the main room, but hampers can be ordered from the 'Servant's Kitchen' near the main house if you don't want to do your own cooking. And, I noted that the queen-bed in the bedroom next door is fitted with electiric blankets just in case the weather is cold.

Its easy to understand why this is the most popularly requested cottage acommdoation at Woolmers Estate, though there are several other restored cottages dotted about the Estate which have also been converted into self-contained holiday accomodation.

I was also keen to see some of the remarks vistors have recently put into the Visitor's Book - "A wonderful step back in time", "The highlight of our Tassie holiday", "such utter peace and quiet" and much more tellingly - "Such a totally romantic stay!"

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Winter lunch at Woolmers

It's winter, the perfect time to think of hearty soups and enourmous, cheerful log fires, and that's exactly the reason I had lunch today in the "Servant's Kitchen' at Woolmers Estate near Longford.

Let me set the scene - the room is redolent of a bygone age with ancient flagstone floor and lime-washed walls. The view, between two towering pines takes in the Western Tiers in the distance and they are bluer than at any other time of year because they actually turn a deeper shade of blue, when the weather gets colder. You look out over the Macquarie River toward a patchwork of fields divided by hawthorn hedges. It's easy to see why the early settlers named the broad valley the Norfolk Plains, so much does this region resemble the English countryside.

In days long gone the "Servant's Kitchen' is where a convict cook or serving woman would have been slaving over that huge log fire - big enough to roast an entire beast and taking up almost half the room. In fact this whole scene has set me off wondering what those long-ago convict women would have been cooking in this very place, and I've resolved to enquire further into this.....

But back to my present-day lunch - I chose (from a choice of three) the delicious sweet-potato soup and it came to me with hot newly-baked damper - the perfect winter warmer.

These days Woolmers is open every day right through the winter, huge logs are added to the fire each day and the soup is freshly set to simmer away! Yum!

Who is she?

The soon to be famous Pixie Lowe is writing all she can think about Woolmers Estate, in Longford, Tasmania, Australia.

Woolmers has been nominated for World Heritage Status along with Brickendon and Port Arthur.

Woolmers is also home to the National Rose Garden and I have been associated with the Rose Garden since its birth.

Stay tuned for exciting stories